A Roman run-up to Christmas

When we think of Christmas evening activities carol singing, mulled wine and German Markets spring to mind. However, you wouldn’t usually associate any of those with Italian culture. So what do the Romans do for a winter’s evening in the run-up to Christmas? Rome is a magical place during the festive period; the strong Catholic beliefs as well as a westernised celebration of the season means the city is engulfed in the lights of church candles, smells of roasting chestnuts and the chatter of bustling shoppers. The Eternal City offers some unique experiences come the colder months, and especially at Christmas time, that are nothing short of bucket-list-worthy. So if you’ve already done your shopping and fancy something a little different, follow our evening itinerary for an insider’s alternative to celebrating in the capital. 1. Admire the views from Pincio Stand at the Pincio in Villa Borghese, the viewpoint at the top of the main steps into the city’s central park, and take in the views of the city at nightfall. As the sun goes down, you can watch the terracotta rooftops of the capital fade away under a warm glow of Christmas lights. To your left you can look all the way up the main shopping street Via del Corso, to the grand Piazza Venezia where the impressive Vittorio Emmanuele II monument stands, and to the west you can see Piazza del Popolo and the Egyptian obelisk of Ramesses. You can even see the great dome of Saint Peter’s Basilica away in the distance. 2. Ice Skating at Castel Sant’angelo Take a walk across the ancient engraved bridges over the river Tiber and hire some skates under Castel Sant’angelo for a spot of atmospheric ice skating. The large round castle was built by the Emperor Hadrian initially as a mausoleum for him and his family but in later years it was used as a fortress and even a prison and today it stands as a museum. Lit up at night, the castle is a spectacular sight – and if you’re lucky, you can catch a show or a figure skating performance on the ice as well. 3. Christmas in Saint Peter’s Stroll along the Lungotevere, the northern bank of the river, under the arch of trees and up to Piazza San Pietro (Saint Peter’s Square) to see the tall, illuminated Christmas tree outside the church. Pope John Paul II brought over the northern European tradition from his native homeland when he was pontificated in 1982. If you’re in Rome on Christmas Eve, you can even catch the unveiling of the nativity scene in the square, too. As well as being a picture-perfect opportunity, it gives you another reason to visit the iconic monument in all its glory. 4. Be a local in Trastevere Explore your way through the cobbled streets of Trastevere (which literally translated means across the Tiber) for a warming glass of wine and a slice of oven baked pizza. The area has numerous star-rated options so you won’t be left disappointed – and you’re guaranteed to be served with a smile! If you need to walk off your dinner, brave the winding Via Garibaldi to get to Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) for breathtaking views across the city. On your way up, look through the gate on the right of the church for a Renaissance masterpiece, The Tempietto, designed by Bramante. 5. Celestial chanting at Sant’Anselmo all’Aventino For something a little different, walk up the Aventine hill to hear some celestial Gregorian chants at the 7.15pm Sunday service at Sant’Anselmo church. This church serves as a monastery and college and is seat to the Abbot Primate of the Order of Saint Benedict (Black Monks). It’s not your usual yuletide carol singing, but a must-do to finish off your trip in spiritual style.

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A Taste of History: Rome's Oldest Restaurants

Have your history and eat it too at Rome's oldest restaurants When in Rome, do as the Romans do and get stuck into its fabulous dining scene. We don't have to tell you about Rome's incredible street food and fresh pastas - the international hype speaks for itself - but there are a few grand establishments worth trying that really know what they're doing. Try the dishes at some of Rome's oldest restaurants below for a true taste of tradition. Some classic Roman #appetizers to start our night at one of the oldest restaurants in #Rome 🇮🇹 #carciofoallagiudia #friedArtichoke #friedzucchiniflowers with cheese 👍😋 #lacampanaroma #ristorantelacampana A post shared by 🎀 🎀 EAT hard PLAY hard 🎀 🎀 (@fonc) on May 14, 2017 at 12:02pm PDT La Campana This family-run trattoria is a stalwart of the Roman dining scene, with nearly 500 years of patronage and Italian comfort food. Founded back in 1518 and named after Pietro de la Campana, the restaurateur who opened the establishment, it remains a firm favourite with both locals and tourists - especially because the Pantheon and Piazza Navona are nearby. Try the Artichokes alla Guidia and Saltimbocca for some real classic tastes. Nearby Sites: Pantheon, Piazza Navona E niente, posso resistere a tutte le tentazioni ma davanti a loro,mi inchino. A post shared by @just_anto64 on May 10, 2017 at 5:23am PDT Ristorante Peppone It's a story we're all familiar with - a small town boy named Giuseppe Tozzi leaves the countryside for the big city, dreaming of fame and fortune. Even back in the 1800s, it was a cliche and one that Giuseppe (nicknamed Peppone) owned wholeheartedly. He opened up a traditional restaurant in the 1890s and it's persisted till now, run by his great grandchildren who bring the flavours of his hometown Abruzzo to the capital. Nearby Sites: Via Veneto doooood getting the full Roman offal experience here... starting at 12:00 is veal testicles (best part on this plate), veal small intestine, veal sweetbreads (damn good), repeats from 6-12 position and then veal liver in the middle... all perfectly roasted with some salt that's it... with squeeze of lemon and it's magically delicious A post shared by Victor Tam (@victors_belly) on Jun 18, 2017 at 6:51am PDT Checchino dal 1887 If you're keen to try quinto quarto - Italian for offal - then you've come to the right place. Popular with locals, this restaurant has lived many lives starting off as a wine cellar, then a slaughterhouse, then eventually a restaurant. Started by a young couple, the restaurant really hit its stride once their daughter and grandson breathed new life into the business and revamped its dishes. With quinto quarto tasting menus, vegetarian options and a mean spaghetti carbonara, it's worth stopping by here on the way to see Monte Testaccio. Nearby Sites: Monte Testaccio Fried artichokes in Rome. Been waiting for this for a long time. #waitingmakesitsweeter A post shared by Christine Barbour (@dcbrocksjewelry_rawredefined) on Jul 8, 2017 at 12:54pm PDT Ristorante Piperno Jewish cuisine is a strong influence on many of Rome's tastes and dishes and you'd be hard-pressed not to find Carciofi alla Giudia (artichokes cooked in the Jewish style) on menus in Rome. As the oldest joint in the Jewish quarter dating back to 1860, it's no surprise that they specialise in the dish - so much so that they threw spring parties called Carciofolata there. Their homemade pastas are also a thing of beauty, try the taglioni. Uma grande mistura de sabores! #gelato #fassi #italia #roma A post shared by Valnice Lopes (@val_nice) on Jul 1, 2017 at 2:56am PDT Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi Skip dinner and head straight for dessert at Palazzo del Freddo, a gelato sanctuary started way back in 1880. Forget the mom and pop soda shops you'll see in the US, gelato is serious business here with classy interiors and over 30 different gelato flavours ranging from safe vanillas and hazelnuts to bolder choices like rice and pineapple. Order an extra large scoop, grab a marble-topped table and be prepared to feast - the dessert's next level here.
Megan Hills
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St Peter’s Basilica; a brief history

With such an iconic silhouette, St Peter’s Basilica is one of the most recognisable landmarks in Italy – not only for its breath-taking skyline, but for the huge role it played in supporting the Roman Catholic Church and inspiring art and architecture for centuries. As a visitor to Rome it would be a crime not to visit the Basilica so before you do, here’s a brief history of the impressive building and its patrons to help you get ahead. Saint Peter and the original Basilica St Peter was believed to have been the first Pope, chief apostle and a martyr. Legend has it he died on the Vatican Hill where he was entombed – so it makes sense that this Basilica was dedicated to him as a sort of shrine. The early basilica was constructed by Emperor Constantine and was completed around 349 AD. Much smaller than how it stands now, it was a mere 85m in length with four aisles, a central fountain and bell tower. To put that into perspective, its nave now measures 211.5m alone – that’s over four Olympic swimming pools. St Peter’s Basilica gets a revamp The Basilica was falling into ruin in the middle of the fifteenth century but it wasn’t until the early 1500s that work began to restore it. Pope Julius II commissioned Bramante as chief architect who designed the high dome. After Bramante’s death in 1514 he was succeeded by a number of other architects; including Michelangelo Buonarroti, Giacomo della Porta and Carlo Maderno, all of whom altered and personalised the design. In 1626 it was finally re-venerated and was on its way to becoming the centre of Christianity; attracting pilgrims and visitors from around the world. Bernini’s Square St Peter’s square was created in the mid seventeenth century by Lorenzo Bernini, in front of the Basilica. Surrounded by imposing colonnades, the square itself is almost as impressive as the building it leads up to. 140 hand-sculpted statues look down onto the paved square with its two fountains and tall Egyptian Obelisk, which was brought to Rome in 37 AD. If you look up to St Peter’s Basilica from the square, you can admire Maderno’s 45.5m façade, lined with religious statues of the apostles, crafted by Giuseppe Valadier. The wealth of the Catholic Church in the 1500s The interior of the Basilica is a testament to the wealth of the Catholic Church in the sixteenth century and Bernini was commissioned to create many of the statues and monuments that adorn its vast 15,160 square metres. The Baroque bronze Baldachin is perhaps one of the most notable monuments, standing at 26m high, made from bronze taken from the roof of the Pantheon. You can also admire the intricate detail of the painted dome ceiling, the statues of St Peter and Michelangelo’s famous marble Pietà. The Dome The Romans aren’t ones to do things in half; the dome at St Peter’s Basilica is also one of the world’s largest, measuring 42 meters in diameter, with a height of 132.5 meters. Winding up the dome is a slanted narrow staircase that leads up to a spectacular viewpoint where you can walk all the way round for stunning panoramic views of Rome. As you can see, nothing was left unplanned or without years of intricate design. From the supportive outer structure of the façade and square, to even the most minute of decorations within the church itself, St Peter’s is a true example of the wealth of the Catholic Church, the brilliance of the esteemed Italian Renaissance artists and sculptors of the fifteenth and sixteenth century, and the underlying belief in creating a centre for Christianity. What Emperor Constantine set out to achieve over 1600 years ago is so far from what he must have envisaged. St Peter’s is now regarded as one of the most famous landmarks in the world and receives over 4 million visitors a year – it has even starred in films and books! So from its humble beginnings as a martyr’s shrine, to the iconic religious monument as it stands today – we’d recommend a quick visit; at least pop your head through the door. NB: You have to adhere to a strict dress code and women need to cover their shoulders and legs. Make your trip to Rome that extra bit easier and invest in a OMNIA Vatican & Rome Pass. Not only can you visit the top attractions and monumental landmarks for free and with discounted entry, but you can travel round the city with a Travelcard and experience the sites from the comfort of a hop-on, hop-off bus tour.
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Three courses in Rome’s best restaurants

As Elizabeth Gilbert rightly points out in her book ‘Eat, Pray, Love’, Rome is a city renowned for its gastronomic delicacies and where neighbourhoods are lined with pasticcerias, pizzerias and gelaterias. When you’re visiting Rome, you most certainly won’t leave hungry and even if you try, it is hard to find a bad meal – though be careful, you can find an overpriced one. Whatever the premise of your trip to the Eternal City, make sure you allow yourself time to have a true taste of the Roman culture. To make it easier for you we’ve come up with a simple itinerary to experience the best of local delicacies and traditions, from starter through to desert. Freni e Frizione An old car part garage, Freni e Frizione (whose name actually means ‘brakes and clutches’) is the place to go for a true sense of young, vibrant Roman foodie life. Nestled in a cobbled corner of Trastevere, this bar isn’t just visited for its strong drinks as much as its legendary antipasti. The place attracts drives of locals to join the culture of ‘little nibbles’ that Italy is so famous for, so make sure you get there early. Doors open at 7pm and the rule is that when you buy a drink you are entitled to as much food from the antipasti selection as you can stomach. Well, within reason. Laid out like an artisan buffet, you’re invited to choose from plates of chickpea salads to fresh mozzarella and tomato, baked ‘zucchine’ and Moroccan inspired cous cous. It’s an antipasti tradition given a modern makeover. Freni e Frizione is the perfect excuse to indulge in some pre-dinner snacks and whet your hungry appetite, so go and sample some rustic Roman delicacies whilst sipping on a refreshing, well made, cocktail crafted by the talented Roman bar staff. Via del Politeama, 4/6, 00153 Rome, Italy L’Economica In the heart of local San Lorenzo, near the main La Sapienza University, L’Economica is an unassuming and uncomplicated pizzeria. To taste some of the best home-made pizza, San Lorenzo offers tourist-free restaurants and tourist-free prices to leave you both satisfied in stomach and in pocket. Served up in a small restaurant with a mezzanine and tables spilling into the street when it’s warm, there’s plenty of room to sit- providing you don’t mind knocking elbows with your neighbour. The pizza choice is varied and true to its Roman roots where you can choose from simple Margheritas to meat feasts of spiced pork and salsicce (sausage); opt for toppings of heart of artichoke, parmesan shavings with fresh rocket, or even try some deep-fried courgette flowers for a true delicacy. These pizzas are lovingly made in the one-man kitchen of L’Economica, where the restaurant staff are all related in some distant Italian way. Wash your dinner down with some house red and leave feeling pleasantly full. Via Tiburtina, 46 00185 Roma Palazzo del Freddo Giovanni Fassi Fassi, as it’s known locally, is one of the oldest and most famous gelaterias in Rome. Founded in 1880, as it proudly advertises, the shop is 700 square metres with 200 of them dedicated to ice-cream making workspace. The Italians love their gelato so what better way to taste some of the flavours of the Mediterranean tradition than by sampling some heaped scoops to cleanse the palette. Lined with glass cabinets and diner-style tables and chairs, Fassi is a proper old-school ice cream parlour and you can even see the vintage ice cream makers on display as well. Open all hours Fassi caters to only the most knowing of tourists and is a local hot spot serving a mix of unique and classic flavours. From traditional tiramisu and exotic fruits, dark chocolate, hazelnut and even rice, to name but a few, choose your serving style of heaped generous scoops, ‘semifreddo’ or ‘granita’ (sundae-style ice cream). Just south of the main train station Termini, it’s a short walk from Vittorio Emmanuele metro station so if you want to space out your meal and walk off a course or two, Fassi is well worth a visit. Via Principe Eugenio, 65, 00185 Roma Make your trip to Rome that extra bit easier and invest in a OMNIA Vatican & Rome Pass. Not only can you visit the top attractions and monumental landmarks for free and with discounted entry, but you can travel round the city with a Travelcard and experience the sites from the comfort of a hop-on, hop-off bus tour. To find out more about how the OMNIA Vatican & Rome Pass works, click here.
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